Peru in Buenos Aires

I’ve been here in Buenos Aires for a month now, visiting with family and enjoying the country that has for as long as I can remember been my second home. Traditional cuisine in Argentina consists mostly of lots of meat and lots of wine. And don’t get me wrong, I love empanadas and morcilla (blood sausage) as much as the next person, but after a few days my pescatarian accustomed body is crying for some fish. The problem? Buenos Aires’ main mass of water is el Rio de La Plata. While it may be the widest river in the world, it is not the world’s main source for fish.

My solution, aside from an abundant amount of insanely expensive sushi, is Peruvian food. Ceviche! I know of no greater combination than fresh raw fish with fresh vegetables. And luckily for me (and all tourists who can take advantage of the exchange rate) it is much cheaper than other Argentine options. As I have previously mentioned, it is important to me to be able to eat inexpensively. What a better way to do it than in another country and in the greatest company: my family.


Chan Chan (Hipólito Yrigoyen 1390 - Tel: 4382-8492) $$ - A small and authentic family owned restaurant in the center of Buenos Aires. Though the presentation of the food and of the place itself are not particularly exciting, it can be quickly overlooked. The service is exceptional and the food is fresh, traditional, and comes in massive quantities. Even if you are accustomed to the gigantic portions served in the United States, you will not leave anything but full. And while the place is slightly plain in appearance, it is clearly not trying as hard as some others to be obviously Peruvian (think humble, not ugly) . It is a relaxed environment without too much noise. The only downfall is that they do not take reservations, so get there before 10 pm. If that is not an option for you, they also deliver. Try: A pisco sour, the oysters, the assorted fish soup, and the ceviches especiales (ask for them spicy). *Does not take credit cards

Mochica (Agüero 520 - Tel: 4866-2200) $$$- Try Mochica for their large assortment. Whether you are an adventurous eater with a strong knowledge of Peruvian food or it is your first time trying it, you will find something to eat, and chances are you will like it. Though they do take reservations, it has not seemed necessary yet. Upon my first visit, the service was absolutely awful and we ended up drinking wine and eating bread until we lost all interest in our orders. To their credit, there were two servers on staff and a few minutes after we sat down another party came in unexpectedly- of 12 people. On the positive side, the wine selection is large and the food was mostly worth the wait. The salmon ceviche was bright, light, and well seasoned. In fact, all ceviches were on point except for the assortment of three, which was way too salty. The three sauces quickly combined, creating an all too powerful effect. They deliver in a “40-50 block radius” though I do not suspect that you will have too much trouble getting a table. And the place is perfect for dates or small gatherings.